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Report about a titanic-model in 1:100, built by Jürgen Kliewe

   The rummage box is part of it…

You can build bitts, haws, breakwaters, capstans and skylights yourself pretty easy, for there is nothing in the local dealer that fits. To do so (and that can be seen especially on the superstructures) you need a big box with all kinds of stuff.
Model builder throw away almost nothing and seldom regret it. The bollards for example, originate from the end of a pin board pen with an under part of .8 mm plastic, in which in all edges and with double bitts between I drilled .5mm holes, the heads of pins are put. That serves for blank imitation. Above, you glue each a 2 mm glass pearl (a flat form) from a tailor shop (by the way a goldmine for amateurs) and a pinhead is stuck into that again and the bitts are already done. Here series work compensates and for perhaps 3 bucks you have done all the bollards for example. After the application of paint they cannot be distinguished from the bought cast parts. Of course, except for the fact that our bitts show more details and they fit exactly in the size.
But let me stay with the cranes for a moment, which are so distinguishing for the appearance of the TITANIC. The under parts consist of a waste pipe, which is lengthened and closed on the rope. Than you saw the actual crane body out of the ABS or plywood. You give them small installation boxes like the original and you provide the whole thing with a double underlay disk downwards. On that the balustrade can be atteched. The cantilever is best soldered.
Different sheet strengths, being paired with messing profiles and round sticks make a very close picture. Those who cannot cope with the soldering iron, can also use good glue, if they do not really want to move the cranes later on. After the polishing and the fixing of the wire ropes for the movement of the cantilever, the crane is ready already. Here you can also work in series, but you have to invest more time, than with the bitts, because the cranes are more more detailed. Besides, you have to be careful that there were different kinds of loading cranes on board.

With my model the entire middle part in the area of the b-and c-deck can be taken off. The advantage is that you get into the inner parts of the ship easier. The piece, however, is pretty long, so that you get in trouble with the veneer, because the ends might not be so long. There, the front and back expending joints help, which you can cut into pieces and which you make colorful cover them with a thin scotch tape. In particular the promenade deck has superstructures, which you have to pay attention to with the drawing of the veneer. That begins with the commando bridge and ends with the entrance of the 2nd class with the elevator structure. The elevated saloons of the b-deck that reach over the a-deck have to be considered.

   next site (Air conditioners)



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Introduction
Measure
The drawings
The hull
Steel plates
The colors
Wood deck
 The rummage-box
Air conditioners
Etching technique
The windows

The end

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