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Report about a titanic-model in 1:100, built by Jürgen Kliewe

   Giving the colors

Now the comes varnishing. I took the customary in trade spray-can in corresponding RAC-tone in matt or silk- matt color.
At first I sprayed the area under water then I glued this paste roughly and I put white paint on the areas of the fore ship and heck as well as the b-deck. That worked pretty well, you just have to shake the paint well, spray very thin and do not point the nozzle to the model the first time you push on the spray-can. (Thick drops, which result in an ugly surface, come out of the can most of the time).
Now the keel water lines are scribed. You can do that very well, when you glue a pencil in the right height on the block and when you now go along the model being on the plan with a pen very slowly. The paste of the under ship is done by a thin painting ribbon. It is important, that above as well as below of the now black-sprayed color everything is paste with newspaper or foil, for the spray paint likes to deposit itself at those spots, where it is not supposed to be. The sticky tape has to be adjacent well, so that the color does not get behind it and thus produce ugly transitions.
This is especially important between the red underwater color and the black hull, while between black and white the yellow ribbon of the White-Star-Line can hide some things, which should be pasted on in the end. Please do not be surprised that some color defects you need six or eight layers until the required covering is achieved. Those who are done with one layer, should look at the result in daylight again and they will become annoyed as paint spot are the result and they ruin hundreds of hours of work. So, you need patience. By the way, only by now the portholes can be put in.

   next site (Wood-deck)



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Introduction
Measure
The drawings
The hull
Steel plates
 The colors
Wood deck
The rummage-box
Air conditioners
Etching technique
The windows

The end

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