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Report about a titanic-model in 1:100, built by Jürgen Kliewe

   The wood-deck

Now the hull is prepared so far that even you as an amateur can recognize the main features of the ship. If that is not the case, then something must have gone wrong. The streamlined forms and the red-black-white tinge with the yellow recognition ribbon between C-and D-deck give the model something special, like the original. However, we are still far away from relaxing and you still have to do approximately two thirds of the building! Because now the superstructures are coming and here it is asked for great details. The most important thing is here as well that you look through all drawings and pictures, pick out the best ones and hang them on the wall. Only if you are clear about what has to be formed, you can start.

   The wood plating of the deck

At first I built the fore ship and the rear lot. That is not very complicated, but from the beginning you have to ask yourself: how do I imitate the wood planks on the decks? Many recommend small wood boards of, with this yard scale, 1.5x50 mm height, which glued on the underground and then are polished. You can mix a little bit of black paint to the wood glue, and then you automatically get darker thrusts of the single planks.
My method is easier and nevertheless brings the wanted success. You go to a joiner and there you look for boughless veneer in a not too dark color (e.g. ash). The veneers should have almost no texture, because that will look kitschy. Well, I found such a wood and because the joiner did not need it anymore anyway, he just gave it to me. You do need a larger amount of that, as all decks that can be seen are covered with wood. I roughly cut out this veneer and then glued it on a plywood plate, which functioned as a carrier Here it's recommended to make this piece fit to the later deck. With wood glue, which is put on very thickly and an old piece of veneer on the backside (against the distort of the thin wood) the piece then goes under the pressure.) Please put down newspaper on both sides, so that the glue welling out will not cloggunder pressure. Perhaps, you can ask a joiner about this as well.
I did it myself; have to admit however, that the first try went wrong. The wood has to be really strong and has to be pressed at all spots, so that the veneer lays flat. Let it dry over night and then comes the exciting moment - with this method it works. The piece of wood looks a little bit unattractive, because rags of newspaper are stuck to it, but with a little bit of polishing with thin polish paper you will get a nice smooth light and poor with texture surface. Now you have to draw the decks plank with a middle strong, always sharp pencil. Superstructures have to be drawn before accurately with all decks, because a wood plank stripe, which lays at right-angle to the other plating, was goes around the superstructures. Since we have worked like professionals for such a long time, this really has to be taken care of.
Then we draw a thin stripe of ca. 2 mill around the later superstructures on which the deck plating is fixed. We show this one by drawing parallel lines with the distance of app. 1.5 mm and by interrupting these after displacing them every 50mm. This looks very similar to the decks pavement and saves a lot of trouble with small sticks…

   next site (The rummage-box)



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Introduction
Measure
The drawings
The hull
Steel plates
The colors
 Wood deck
The rummage-box
Air conditioners
Etching technique
The windows

The end

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